The return of La Bohème. How to nail Bohemian Style

Photography: Elisa Hutter

Every generation has their own sense of fashion and style, which reflect their dreams, aspirations and attitude to life?! Looking at fashion history, most brands iconic items appeared as direct answer to women’s needs, very often not yet identified by women themselves, filling in a void in women’s wardrobes and lifestyle.

Before we discuss the current sense of fashion let’s have a brief look at Chanel, Dior, YSL and Max Mara for example, which fashion icons not only have withstood the test of time, but have turned into symbols of fashion, representing the liberation and empowerment of women. The four brands created their iconic pieces in different times of history becoming an instant success not only because of manifesting a practical piece to fit into the modern woman wardrobe, but because they dared women to look at themselves differently and to reach out for more than what society has ruled for them.

Whether we discuss Chanel’s tweed suit and her fake pearls (Chanel took the fashion world by storm with her passion for feminizing the tweed and the trousers, which she considered way more comfortable than the restrictive corsets and long skirts  from the Belle Epoch), the bar jacket and hourglass silhouette of Dior “New Look” (Christian Dior celebrated ultra-femininity and opulence), YSL “Le Smoking” tuxedo (YSL embraced the idea of female androgyny, but combined with a cutting-edge sense of provocative sexuality, which was absent from Chanel’s vision) and finally the Max Mara camel coat, which offers tailoring quality with industrial production, all of these iconic pieces give us today a deeper insight and understanding of our modern wardrobe and how we have reached this moment of fashion history today. At the same time we can understand better what our mothers and grandmothers dreams and aspirations were at the time. 

Zeitgeist and fashion today? Why we dress the way we dress? 

There are two types of aesthetic dominating women’s wardrobes today: Minimalism and Maximalism. 

I am not going to talk much about minimalism, because it’s quite understandable why minimalism emerged as a trend! An opposition and a rebellion against overconsumption and overproduction, a call to return to a more simplistic, uncomplicated life, minimalism is an utopia or may be a possibility for some of us, even though very difficult in today’s state of economy to live with less and to experience happiness as our ancestors did.  

And then there is the second movement, which trails from the Boheme culture and aesthetic? Maximalism. What does this reflect? 

THE RETURN OF THE BOHEME

Trousers ByAdushka

Bag, handcrafted in Colombia, Guanabana

Belt ByAdushka

Upcycled Suzani Jacket, Obidi

Maximalism is not necessarily related to a culture of buying or owning more, but it is a way of thinking and expressing. Maximalism today is related to the return of the bohemian culture, the vintage obsession and unconventional lifestyle. 

Let’s look at Bohemian style closer, as the word is used a lot in fashion, but not all understand what it means. 

It is not quite clear when exactly Bohemiam culture was founded. Some think it appeared as counterculture following the French Revolution in the late 18th century. The revolution placed many artists into poverty, forcing them to adopt nomadic and minimalistic lifestyle. As Romanticism peaked these artists became considered unique geniuses whose creativity and individualism were expressed through the way they lived and looked. Typically characterized by earthy-tones with splashes of color, flowing fabrics, patterns, flowers and excessive accessories, the boho chic style allows individuals to express their desire to break away from social norms and live unconventionally.

Others believe the French word ‘Bohémien’ was a disparaging term first used to describe Romani people, who back then were believed to have come to France from Bohemia, an ancient medieval kingdom that now forms the largest historical region of the Czech Republic.

Either way Bohemian style was unintended at the beginning. Most artists wore secondhand clothing, loose fitted, care-free, funky patterns and many layers, without paying much attention to what they were wearing. Some of the clothes they were wearing were artisanal pieces from friends who worked in crafts. 

In the 19th century Bohemian culture became more intentional. “Merging with the hippie movement that stood for similar ideas of championing self-expression and rejecting conventional ideals, Woodstock in 1969 was a watershed moment that undoubtedly played a seminal role in redefining the aesthetic. Floral, airy dresses were present but so too were flared silhouettes, embroidery, ponchos, moccasins, balloon sleeves and fringing”, writes Harpers Bazaar. 

Blouse and Trousers Yellow Bloom The Label Edition, available at ByAdushka

Three tips how to master Bohemian Style

Given the last few years of lockdowns, it doesn’t come as a surprise that the free-spirited and embracing-individualism aesthetic of the Bohemian Culture is making a come back. Add the fact that there is huge interest in vintage pieces, crafts and sustainable clothing and you would understand why Bohemian Style is back.

And if you still wonder how to achieve Bohemian chic, let me say there aren’t many rules when it comes to it, but perhaps a few guidelines that can make it easier for you to find what works best.

1. First and most important is to master the art of layering, or rather wearing several of your favourite pieces at once. Some of my favourite  essential Bohemian pieces that I put together are a green velvet duster (similar you can find here), purchased a few years ago from By Adushka, straight silk pants (similar you can find here) and a romantic lace shirt. Remember when you layer or combine pieces to embrace a mix of rich colours, patterns, textures and cuts. Yet keep one piece simple.
2. Don’t be afraid to wear lots of accessories all at once. Or choose unexpected elements like a pair of clogs (similar here) or Maroccan Slippers. Wear a cool hat or conventional vintage inspired jewellery like 16em Sud.
3. The modern Boheme loves natural loose fabrics that feel good on the skin. She loves to play and experiment with colour combinations and prints. If that is not your forte, try layering block colours, a tunic over trousers mixed with a hat, a short jacket and why not colourful slippers? Go with your heart and own your style. 

Silk Kimono Obidi, one of a kind, on demand at ByAdushka