December Style Diaries: Embracing sustainable cashmere with a fresh spin on quiet luxury

We’ve talked about sustainable cashmere before. Today we’ll discuss what is sustainable cashmere and how to pull off the Quiet Luxury Look that everyone has been talking about ever since the appearance of Gwyneth Paltrow during a trial last April opposing a man who accused her of injuring him during a ski accident in 2016.

But first let’s talk about Sustainable cashmere.

Is Cashmere bad for the planet

On one hand, cashmere is a natural fibre, coming from the hair of a specific breed of goat originating in Kashmir, India, where cashmere production is said to have begun around the 13th century. Unlike polyester, nylon and other synthetics, there are no issues regarding its ability to decompose. Most cashmere fibre is sourced from cashmere goats, who live nomadically with their herders, rather than confined to one fenced area. In spring, when the temperatures raise, cashmere goats naturally shed their inner coat of hair. Herders comb and collect the hair for cashmere fabrics. It all sounds very idyllic, but with increased demand for cashmere products and with fast fashion brands lowering the price for cashmere products, some ethical issues have been rising. As with all animal-derived products, the goats used in the production of cashmere produce a carbon footprint. Consider that four goats are needed to produce one cashmere sweater. With the increased demand of the market, the industry has to ramp up its pace, compromising with welfare standards for goats and reduced payments to herders and industry workers.

Fast Fashion with its lower prices on cashmere products and increased quantities demands has a direct effect on the degradation of the land and socio-economic struggles. Researchers claim that “90% of this total degraded rangeland can be recovered naturally within ten years if we can change existing management. But if we can’t change today, it will be too late after five to ten years.”

The closest you can get to sustainable cashmere

While all of this information may change your opinion on wearing cashmere, there are ways to actually support a more sustainable approach to making cashmere. How?

1. When buying cashmere, always ask questions about the brand and make sure they work with farmers and herders who practise ‘sustainable grazing’ to ensure preservation of the land.
2. It’s best when brands work with nomad families, who care for the wellbeing of the goats
3. Furthermore, cashmere that is sustainable focuses on people who design and make each item, ensuring they are paid a fair price and have good quality working conditions. The By Adushka Cashmere sweater and scarf I chose for my look are made from 100% Mongolian Cashmere, collected from goats entirely sheared by hand. This traditional process has the advantage that it is not only more environmentally friendly than industrial processes, but also does not cause any pain to the goats and even contributes to their well-being. The final cashmere products at By Adushka are produced in a small factory in Mongolia, combining ancient traditional and hand finishing skills with advanced processing, spinning and knitting technologies.

Mastering Quiet Luxury

What is quiet luxury? “This trend, which appeared on podiums over the last few years, according to the trade press, isn’t really a trend. It is a recurring movement that follows financial crises and major stock-exchange panic”, writes the Luxury Tribune.

Quiet luxury puts emphasis on simplicity and high-quality, minimalist pieces that have timeless appeal. What matters is the impeccable cut and materials: the most beautiful cashmere, impeccable cotton, precious wool, and the most sumptuous leathers on the racks.

True elegance means not being noticed

For me the essence of quiet luxury is in the play between natural materials and refined cuts, combined in similar, nature inspired soothing tones. Sage green, warm almonds, and muted blues, different shades of grey and brown.

While a logo speaks loud, true luxury whispers.

You may think grey is boring, but don’t simplify and reduce fashion down to colours only. In fact when we talk about quiet luxury we have to think differently. You have to use your intuition to play and even experiment with wardrobe essentials, sometimes old and contemporary pieces, neutral tones and classics, while creating a charming balanced silhouette of different designs, cuts and fabrics.

In this case I’ve put together a cosy By Adushka sustainable Cashmere cable knit sweater with front-pleated, wide leg cotton trousers, a cashmere scarf that seems like an extra collar of the long and loose cardigan, all from the By Adushka cashmere collection. Later I layered this look with two more elements: a Fog merino wool coat and an up cycled mini bag made from Antic Japanese Obi silk belts.

I find that despite the use of one seemingly basic colour, the look is interesting because of the eye-catching refined textures, the layering that creates a unique silhouette and the feeling of nonchalant elegance.

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