Milan Fashion Week! What’s New and Style Goals in 2023

Fashion seems in a state of a limbo since the pandemic and judging by what I saw during the Milan Fashion Week, most of the Fashion Houses haven’t found a new aesthetic direction yet. There’s a lot of re-organization going on. Some of the the most influential star creative directors  have been changed (GUCCI & Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta,  Burberry ) and there is a feeling of anticipation, but also uncertainty about the new chapter that is about to open. 

Call me a die-hard optimist, but I felt that brands were preparing, regrouping and revising their archives before taking on a new meaningful direction. May be this was the reason why I couldn’t pick any clear trend from the Milan Fashion shows, but I sensed an emphasis on heritage and history. As if creative directors wanted to remind of their values, of the unique journey and history, and the people who stay behind the brand. At the end of the day it is a collective effort and I wonder if that’s the end of the era of the Rockstar status of the creative directors? 

Emerging Fashion Talents Milan

Images: courtesy to HAY HAY Concept

Moving on to the Emerging Fashion Talents, which this year were presenting at the splendid venue of Palazzo Visconti, the main focus was on gender fluid collections and sustainability. Once again seasonal trends were left out, giving freedom to everyone to interpret fashion in their own way and lifestyle needs.

One of my personal favourite among the emerging talents this year was Xenofon.ology and his “Yet untitled” collection, focused on self-discovery and sustainability. The designer who is coming from Athens, has chosen sensual silk fabrics, printed with motifs, drawn by hand, inspired by the Red Queen from Alice in Wonderland and symbols of the Mother Archetype, fine butterflies and moths and creatures of the night that flight towards the light. The story of the creation of this collection is both personal and resonating all of us who used these past two, three years to take on a self-discovery journey. Discover the whole collection here, available to order, and tailored for your body shape. Some of the garments are designed through the lens of intricate and very fine corsets, which embrace the body rather than forcing it to fit in. The designer views corsets as a strong core that gives stability and safety. The final effect of the garments is a graceful elongated silhouette, enhanced by draping, circular patterns and explosions of pleats. 

Another favourite from the Emerging Fashion Talents this season was TUMO Studios X Armine Ohanyan, represented by HAY-HAY Concept, a community and online store that go beyond fashion, with the mission of uncovering cultural insights about Armenia and expanding into a media platform.

The eco-line created by TUMO Studios and Armine Ohanyan Paris is inspired by the natural beauty of Armenia and strives to reduce pollution, build a more sustainable future, and bring awareness to the importance of environmentally-friendly products.

The main mission of this collaboration is to boost local production. The clothing is made in Armenia using plastic waste and naturally dyed fabrics and threads as raw material. In collaboration with ISSD (Innovative Solutions for Sustainable Development of Communities) all the plastic bottles were recycled and partially used in different pieces of the collection. 

Personal Style Goals – Timeless Feminine Wardrobe

As for what I wore during Milan Fashion Week, it was an unintended reflection of the general mood. A mix of my personal wardrobe favourites styled in a playful mood with emphasis on vintage pieces and authentic interpretation of the current times.

For my first outfit I chose a classic Black and White look, balanced with a fishbone wool coat and some brooches. I am wearing a pair of boxy vintage leather trousers, GUCCI, sourced at Love at the Bus stop. I’ve balanced the edgy masculine leather with a see-through mousseline blouse with a bow, sophisticated and sensual as opposed to the wool and leather. The blouse and the coat are both from By Adushka current collection. I chose red boots from Balenciaga, another vintage piece, never worn, from Love at the Bus stop. 

The main idea of the look is the return to dressed up. This look is about creating fantasies through the pieces we already have in our wardrobe and mixing them with something new!  

Re-interpreting the suit and balancing between masculinity and femininity are never-ending themes in my personal wardrobe. In this case I’ve put together a knee length skirt with a slit and a slightly longer blazer that turns almost into a duster, combined with merino wool striped turtle neck, a vintage belt and oversized vintage GUCCI sunglasses with the intention of evoking Coco Chanel style, before she became famous and rich. This look is both work-style, but also playful and rule-breaking, because of the slit, the stripes and the oversized belt. 

The whole look is available at By Adushka

My last look is another balance between playful femininity, boxy masculine pants and my wild side. The Green lace Vivetta Top I chose is features playful rhinestone decorations and a preppy blue collar. I chose a vintage Lanvin jacket and again the vintage leather GUCCI pants.

I am basically wearing everything favourite from my wardrobe and none of it is new, including my camera style bag.